Each piece starts life as rough sketches. Depending on the complexity of the design, sometimes prototypes or parts are made to test our ideas before the design is finalised.
Some jewellery designs can be made directly from sheet or wire metal or carved from a hard wax block and then cast in the desired metal.
We also use computer aided design (CAD) and computer-aided manufacture (CAM) to create intricate designs.
We send the CAD file to our 3-D printer which creates the model in resin. Once rinsed and dry the support structure around each resin model is cut away and the model is filed the refined. It is then ready to be cast in the desired metal.
Rings in particular are often created in parts to allow for precise finishing and polishing or to allow access for stone setting. When the design requires a combination of different metals these parts need to be made separately and then assembled after casting.
If we wish to produce the design repeatedly we first create a master model of the design in silver and which we mould to create copies. Before moulding, the master model is fitted with a sprue. A sprue is a feed line to allow the wax access to the model inside the mould.
The silver model is embedded in soft silicone rubber inside a metal frame. When vulcanised under heat and pressure it becomes a flexible mould that holds its shape. It is carefully cut open to remove the silver model and leave a cavity. The mould can then be injected with liquid wax which when cooled forms wax replicas.
These waxes are then treed ready for investment. Each wax is carefully attached to a central sprue, like branches of a tree so that the metal will be able to flow to all parts from the “trunk”. The different metal types are cast separately. We cast 950 Platinum, 18ct white, yellow, and rose gold and silver.
When the waxes have all been correctly positioned a casting flask is placed over the tree.
The investment powder is mixed with water under a vacuum to form a smooth slurry. Then poured into the flask and left for 3 hours to set.
Once set, the flask is placed in a furnace overnight. During this time, the wax burns away, creating cavities ready for the metal. The next morning the flask is removed from the furnace and placed in a vacuum pressure casting machine. The solid metal pieces are poured into the graphite crucible and then super-heated using an induction coil. When the correct temperature is reached the process is initiated. Preset programs determine the sequence of events to ensure that each stage is activated at the exact time to achieve perfect results. The casting chamber flushes with argon to remove any foreign gases.
A vacuum is applied to the lower chamber, allowing the molten metal to flow into the mould through the process of gravity and the negative pressure caused by the vacuum. When complete the vacuum is released and the chamber can be opened. The flask is removed and immersed in water to cool and liquefy the plaster releasing the newly formed metal tree.
The casting practice is the industry-standard method of production. We are unusual in that we do all these processes in-house. This allows us to control and maintain the quality of our work.
Once all plaster residue is removed the individual jewellery parts are cut from the “trees”. These pieces are then prepared for hallmarking.
Hallmarking is done independently at the Sheffield Assay office. The United Kingdom is one of the few countries where Hallmarking is a compulsory statutory requirement. This means that all items we sell must have been tested by a third-party Assay Office to guarantee their quality.
The assaying and hallmarking processes are relatively simple and involve testing (assaying) the metal by X-Ray to ensure the metal is the quality stated and then stamping (hallmarking) the item appropriately. If the piece is particularly small or cannot be stamped the assay office may laser engrave the hallmark.
These are Faller assay marks. WF for William Faller the founder of Faller. 925 = Sterling silver, 750 = 18ct gold, 950 = platinum. The numbers are parts per thousand so 950 means 95% pure. Finally the rose mark indicates Sheffeld Assay Office.
Once returned from hallmarking the parts are filed and sanded. At this stage, rings are usually assembled and sized by soldering or laser welding. The use of a laser welder allows for strong joins even after stone-setting. Even platinum can be melted and joined at one point on the ring without damaging our burning most gemstones.
Occasionally as in this piece, some setting has to be done before assembly to allow our setter the necessary access to the part to be stone-set. Once that is done the parts are joined, finished and pre-polished prior to the final setting.
Our stone setter, working under a microscope, precisely cuts and shapes the setting ready to hold the diamonds and gemstones. She positions each stone and once aligned correctly she uses a hammer action handpiece to gently push the metal over the stone until it is held securely in place.
Once all the setting is complete the ring is then finely sanded, buffed, and polished to achieve its brilliant shine and sparkle.
Although we carry out constant quality control throughout, our final inspections ensure the piece is in perfect condition to be put on display or collected by the customer. Rings, earrings, pendants, and bangles are all inspected with a loupe. If the piece is diamond set, the integrity and strength of the settings are tested to ensure the stones are secure. Each piece is photographed and added to our stock database.
Only now is the item ready to go on display, or if it is a bespoke piece it can be collected or packaged and sent to the customer. We contact each customer to ensure someone is in to receive the parcel as all of our postal methods require a signature.
Start your journey with us today. Whether you’re looking for an engagement ring, wedding ring, or piece of diamond or gemstone dress jewellery, we have lots for you to choose from.
If you’d prefer something a little more personal, Contact Us and the the perfect piece created for you.
