Dazzled by diamonds? You’re not alone. From sparkle and shape to rarity and value, a world of factors influence the perfect gem for your dream piece of jewellery. When you discover what truly matters—and learn the insider lingo—you’ll shop with confidence and choose a diamond that delights you every time you wear it.
Diamond Guide
What is the difference between a natural diamond and a lab-grown diamond?
Lab-created diamonds and natural diamonds may look identical, but key differences matter. Both share the same chemical composition, hardness, and brilliance—making them equally durable and beautiful to the naked eye.
However, their stories set them apart. Natural diamonds are rare treasures, formed deep within the earth over billions of years under intense heat and pressure. Each one is unique and has become a symbol of everlasting love, admired for its rarity and history.
In contrast, lab-made diamonds are created in a controlled environment and can be produced in large quantities. They’re a budget-friendly option, allowing you to get a bigger stone for less money. But keep in mind, their resale value may not hold up over time.
If you value tradition, symbolism, and long-term investment, saving for a natural diamond is worthwhile. If size and affordability matter more, a lab-created diamond could be a great fit.
What determines value in natural diamonds?
Each individual diamond’s beauty and cost will be influenced by its Colour, Clarity, Cut and Carat weight. Known as the 4 C’s, these qualities are use to grade the diamond and calculate its value.
What guarantee do I have that the diamond grading is correct?
Diamond grading laboratories are used to verify grading on individual diamonds. Their diamond report or certificate gives an independant guarantee of the diamond’s quality and value.
The Gemological Institute of America, (GIA) is an independant non-profit organization who developed the “4 C’s” diamond grading system to evaluate diamonds. The differences in diamonds can be so subtle, even a trained jeweler can’t recognize them without lab verification. A diamond grading report from an unbiased, scientific source such as GIA is proof of what you are purchasing.
Unfortunately, some labs have succumbed to pressure to lower their standards, allowing lower quality and lower priced diamonds to be presented with higher ratings. Use caution when comparing the price of diamonds graded by two different labs; what at first seems like a bargain may only be the result of more relaxed grading. Approximately 1 in 3 diamonds sold has been treated or “enhanced” in some way. Any treatment or “enhancement” made to a diamond lowers its value. Faller does not sell diamonds that have been treated in any way.
Every Faller diamond solitaire over 0.40ct has been certified by GIA, is accompanied by its GIA Dossier and will have the laser number inscribed on the diamond’s girdle. All smaller diamonds are graded to GIA standards.
What is the difference between diamond cut & diamond shape?
Shape refers to the diamond’s overall outline, whether it is round, square, oval, etc. Because these shapes are often called diamond cuts, it’s easy to confuse them with the cut grading system, which evaluates how well a diamond is cut to maximise sparkle and brilliance. Each diamond shape has characteristics that affect its suitability and appeal, and understanding those details will help you choose the right diamond shape for you.
Cuts and Shapes Guide
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Round
ROUND CUT
3/4 of all diamonds sold are round brilliant cuts, making them by far the most popular.
Over time, the ideal proportions of a round cut have been perfected to maximise light return (brilliance) and dispersion (fire). Technological advances have helped produce the incredibly brilliant cuts we see today. A typical round diamond (for example, a 1.00 carat, F-colour, VS2-clarity, Ex cut) may cost 25-35% more than a similar fancy shape.
Round diamonds cost more per carat than fancy shapes for two reasons: demand is very high, and yield is relatively low because more of the rough stone is lost when cutting a round diamond than when cutting fancy shapes.
Coloured diamonds aren’t cut as round brilliants because colour’s harder to see in round diamonds, and colour matters more than brilliance in coloured diamonds.
Setting Factors
Round brilliant cuts are the most versatile diamond shape and can take many setting styles. View our style gallery for some ideas.
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Cushion
CUSHION CUT
The cushion cut is a modern update of the old mine cut, which was the main style used before the 1900s. Cushion cuts are either square or slightly rectangular with rounded corners and brilliant-style facets. While they are not as sparkly as round brilliants, cushion cuts have more fire (flashes of coloured light). Traditional cushion cuts have steep crown and pavilion facets, a large culet, and a small table. This creates a chunkier light-return pattern than modern cuts. Cushion cuts have changed over time, with smaller culets, larger tables, and improved angles for more brilliance. Cushion cut standards vary more than those of most other shapes.Modern brilliant cushion cuts have better symmetry, proportions, and polish than older versions. They can look similar to round brilliants, but offer a more unique shape. A modified brilliant cushion cut has extra facets on the pavilion (the bottom of the diamond). This gives it a “crushed ice” or needle-like sparkle, more like a radiant cut than a traditional cushion cut.Cushion cut diamonds come in many shapes, from almost square to very rectangular. The best shape depends on personal preference. Rectangular cushions have less symmetry and need more depth (more carat weight) to look as brilliant as square cushions, so square shapes are usually more cost-effective. If a rectangular cushion is not cut well, it can develop a bow-tie shadow across the centre (like an oval cut). Always view the diamond in different lighting to check for this.Coloured diamonds are often cut as cushions because this shape intensifies colour.Setting Factors
Rim settings highlight the unique shape of cushion cut diamonds. Claw settings, on the other hand, make them look more square or rectangular. Diamonds with rounded corners are often set with double claws for extra security. Cushion cuts are almost as versatile as round cuts—they work well as side stones in three-stone rings or as the main stone in a halo ring. -
Square - Princess cut
PRINCESS CUT
The princess cut diamond is square, with a unique “crushed ice” or needle-like sparkle. This popular fancy shape is loved for its brilliance, sparkle, and relative affordability. Its extra facets help hide inclusions because they scatter light well.Princess cuts also make good use of the rough diamond, which means they usually cost less than round diamonds of the same size. They shine more evenly than other long-shaped diamonds. However, princess cuts have a smaller diameter than rounds for the same carat weight, so they may look smaller.Generally, the more rectangular the princess cut, the lower the price. Many people prefer a slightly rectangular princess cut with the longer side along the finger, as it can look more flattering.Setting Factors
The sharp, pointed corners of princess cut diamonds were once the outer edges of the original rough stone. This means you may see natural marks, inclusions, or extra facets in these areas. The corners are fragile and can chip easily, so they need extra protection when set in jewellery. Round claws are often larger on princess cuts than on round diamonds, but “V”-shaped claws offer even better protection.Princess cuts are popular in channel settings for wedding and eternity rings because their straight edges fit neatly together with no gaps. However, they are harder to set than round diamonds and usually cost more to set. -
Octagon - Emerald Cut
EMERALD CUT
A sophisticated and elegant classic diamond cut.
The emerald cut diamond stands out for its rectangular shape, step-cut pavilion, and large, open facets. Unlike a brilliant cut, the emerald cut creates a striking “hall of mirrors” effect as light plays across its light and dark planes. This gives the stone a timeless, elegant look that is subtle and understated, with less “flash” or sparkle than other cuts.
The emerald cut was originally developed for emerald gemstones, which is how it got its name. While these diamonds are typically rectangular, their proportions can range from nearly square to long and narrow. The classic emerald cut has a length-to-width ratio of about 1.5. If you prefer a squarer look, consider the asscher cut, which offers a similar style.
Because emerald cut diamonds have large, open facets, their colour and clarity are more noticeable—especially in larger stones. To ensure a beautiful appearance, choose a diamond with at least one grade higher in colour and clarity than you would for a brilliant cut.
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Octagon - Asscher Cut
ASSCHER CUT
The Asscher cut is a square-shaped diamond with deeply cut corners, giving it an octagonal look. Compared with the emerald cut, the Asscher has a higher crown, a deeper, more rounded pavilion, a smaller table, and larger step facets. These features make it sparkle more than the emerald cut. When you look down through a well-cut Asscher, you’ll see concentric squares. Because of its depth, the Asscher cut appears smaller than other fancy shapes of the same carat weight.Every Asscher cut diamond is unique and must be evaluated individually. There is no set pricing because each stone is one-of-a-kind. To choose the best Asscher, balance beauty, size, and price. Because colour and clarity are more noticeable in Asscher cuts, especially in larger stones, review these grades carefully. Choose at least one grade higher in colour and clarity than you would for a brilliant cut.Setting Factors
The Asscher cut’s deep, rounded pavilion makes it difficult to create a flush fit where the engagement and wedding rings sit evenly together. The setting must be taller and more upright than with other diamond shapes. If you prefer a narrow band, you’ll likely need a specially shaped wedding ring to fit around the Asscher setting. -
Octagon - Radiant cut
RADIANT CUT
The perfect cut for those who want maximum brilliance in a square or rectangular shape.
The radiant cut is a cut-cornered, rectangular or square modified brilliant. They have (in common with princess cuts and some cushion cuts) a distinctive “crushed ice” or needle-like facet pattern and, as a result, have much greater brilliance and fire than the emerald or asscher cut. A square cut radiant will have better sparkle than the princess cut. With the increase in popularity of square cuts, radiants are now more commonly cut square or nearly square. In longer, rectangular radiant-cut diamonds, a bow tie effect is more likely (though not as common as in oval, marquise, and pear cuts). Rectangular diamonds have less symmetry than square diamonds and need greater depth (which translates to higher carat weight) to achieve similar brilliance, so squarer cuts are more cost-effective. With no recognised standard for proportions, cut quality varies considerably, as the cutter tries to achieve maximum yield from the rough crystal. Personal evaluation and comparison of a selection of radiant cuts is the best way to judge their individual beauty for yourself.
Coloured diamonds are often cut as radiant cuts, as this shape maximises colour saturation.
Setting Factors
The claws securing a radiant are less obtrusive than those required for the sharp corners of a princess and tend to give a more pleasing result, so they are a great alternative to a princess solitaire. The cropped corners also help to minimise chipping. Radiant cuts can look very effective with various side-stone options in trilogies and as a centre stone in halo rings.
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Oval
OVAL CUT
The oval modified brilliant cut is like a stretched round brilliant cut, with similar fire and brilliance to a round cut, except “stretched” facets can leak light across the centre, creating a darker area known as a bow tie. This can range from near-invisible to severe. You can only judge a bow-tie’s severity by viewing the diamond in person. Like all fancy shapes, there is no ideal cut in terms of proportions, but the classic oval cut has a length-to-width ratio of 1.35–1.50. A thinner oval can work well in a trilogy ring, and a wider shape may suit a solitaire better, but finger proportions will also influence suitability. Apart from the minimum of bow-tie, personal preference should be the main deciding factor. The oval is a good option if you want something like the round brilliant but a little more unusual. With a larger surface area than the round cut at the same carat weight and a lower price point, ovals deliver great impact on a tighter budget. Allow at least one grade higher in colour than round brilliants, as ovals appear yellower because of their shallower cut. The oval cut diamond’s elongated shape can make the wearer’s finger appear longer and slimmer.
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Pear
PEAR CUT
The pear cut is a brilliant diamond shape that blends the round and marquise cuts, ending in a pointed tip. Like marquise diamonds, pear cuts need excellent symmetry—both sides should curve evenly, and the point should align with the centre of the rounded end.The classic pear-shaped diamond usually has a length-to-width ratio between 1.40 and 1.70, but you’ll see slimmer and wider versions depending on how the cutter shapes the stone from the rough diamond. Pear-shaped diamonds often show a “bow-tie” shadow across the middle, ranging from barely visible to very obvious. The only way to judge the bow-tie effect is to view the diamond in person.When choosing a pear cut for a ring, consider finger length, setting style, and whether the ring is a solitaire or multi-stone design—these factors affect whether a wider or slimmer shape looks best. Pear cuts also work well as side stones in trilogy rings and make beautiful pendants and drop earrings. Because their cut is shallower, pear shapes tend to look more yellow than round brilliants, so it’s best to choose a diamond at least one colour grade higher.Setting Factors
The pointed tip of a pear cut diamond comes from the outer edge of the original rough stone, so it can have natural marks, inclusions, or extra facets in that area. Setting a pear cut requires special care because the tip is delicate and can chip easily. Jewellers use a “V”-shaped claw to protect the point. If the girdle (the edge around the diamond) is too thin, the tip can be weak and break; if it’s too thick, setting becomes difficult and extra weight is hidden where it can’t be seen. -
Marquise
MARQUISE CUT
The marquise cut is a pointed, oval-shaped diamond with a modified brilliant cut. Like pear cuts, a marquise diamond should have excellent or very good symmetry, with both pointed ends aligned and smooth, even curves. The classic marquise shape has a length-to-width ratio between 1.75 and 2.15. However, diamond cutters often adjust the shape to maximise the stone’s yield, so marquise diamonds can range from slim to wide. Choose the shape that best suits your personal taste.Setting Factors
Marquise cuts usually show some degree of bow-tie effect, a dark area across the centre that can range from almost invisible to quite noticeable. The only way to judge this is to see the diamond in person. Carat for carat, the marquise diamond offers one of the largest surface areas of any shape. Its long, narrow form can make the diamond look bigger than it is, offering great value. The marquise cut can also make fingers appear longer and slimmer. Because marquise diamonds are cut shallower, they may look slightly yellower than round brilliants, so try to choose at least one colour grade higher when comparing.Because the pointed ends of a marquise cut were nearest the outer edge of the original rough diamond crystal, you can sometimes expect naturals, inclusions, and extra facets there. Setting requires great care, and the points need to be protected by “V”- shaped claws to reduce the risk of chipping or cracking. A pointed tip with a very thin girdle can reduce durability, while an extremely thick girdle can make setting difficult and hide weight below the girdle, where you cannot see it.
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Heart
HEART CUT
For the incurable romantic, the modified brilliant-cut heart-shaped diamond is the perfect symbol of love. When choosing a heart, symmetry is key, since the two halves must match. The cleft (between the two lobes) should be sharp and distinct, and the wings (the sides as they curve down to the point) should be slightly rounded.
Setting Factors
Heart-shaped diamonds under 0.50ct may not be a good choice, as the heart shape is harder to see in smaller diamonds, especially when set in claws. If claw-set, one claw on each lobe and one claw at the point will better show the heart-shaped outline. A rim setting will show off their unique shape better.
Are yellow diamonds valuable?
Diamonds can come naturally in almost any colour, including purple, pink, red, blue, green and grey. Many of these colours are incredibly rare and highly valued.
Yellow diamonds make up 50%-60% of all naturally coloured diamonds. Their value increases with yellow intensity. From Fancy Light Yellow, Fancy Yellow, Fancy Intense Yellow to Fancy Vivid Yellow (also known as Canary Yellow). Darker yellow diamonds then decrease in value.
Canary diamonds are usually the most valuable and can cost more than a white/colourless diamond of the same shape and size. Yellow diamonds can also have brown, green and orange tones, and these are less valuable than true yellow diamonds. Yellow diamonds aren’t cut as round brilliants, as it’s harder to see the colour in round diamonds. Many are radiant or cushion cut, as these shapes maximise the colour saturation.
Yellow diamonds are mainly found in Africa, including Angola, Central Africa, Congo, and Sierra Leone, but have also been discovered in Brazil, Australia, and Borneo.
While naturally occurring coloured diamonds have significant value, many near-colourless diamonds are colour enhanced. Irradiation creates vivid yellow, blue, green, and black colours. HPHT (high pressure with high temperature) results in yellow or purple-pink hues. Irradiated yellow diamonds usually come in orange-yellow and darker shades of yellow colour, whereas HPHT-processed yellow diamonds tend to be bright yellow. These are nowhere near the value of natural yellow diamonds.
Are the diamonds ethically sourced?
We guarantee that all Faller diamonds are natural (not factory-manufactured, lab-grown or created ) and mined from legitimate sources not involved in funding conflict and in compliance with UN resolutions. We hereby guarantee that the diamonds are conflict-free based on personal knowledge and/or written guarantees.
How do I care for my diamonds?
Diamond jewellery will last a lifetime with proper care. As with any gemstone, buildup under a diamond will reduce its sparkle. To maintain your diamond’s brilliance at home, soak the jewellery in a bowl with four parts warm water and one part household ammonia for no more than ten minutes. Brush very gently with a very soft brush, dip it back into the solution, rinse and leave it to drain on some tissue paper. Paper tissues can leave fibres and dust on the ring and are therefore less suitable for drying than jewellery cloths or other lint-free fabrics. Alternatively, you can use a hair dryer on a low setting from an appropriate distance to air-dry your diamond jewellery and avoid water spots.
It is not advisable to use ammonia on other gemstone jewellery. Check out our Jewellery Care Guide for advice on how to care for gemstone and diamond jewellery.